The Ovaltine Cafe: the Food Part

Wednesday, September 25, 2002

 

OvaltineYes, the Ovaltine serves food, a fact which endears it to me no end, as it is well known that I am a food addict, though not one such as gets out of control, nor even one that is likely to get on Oprah, but just one who has been known to enjoy a little food now and then, perhaps even at breakfast. Churchill ate food at breakfast unapologetically, as did Hemingway and quite a number of other fine, respectable types, so I see no need to feel apologetic or defensive about it and do not indulge in such behaviour.

 

The food: oh yes, the food. They have a big whiteboard in the window with all the specials listed; the specials are always the same and have been the same since, as I said before, the Beatles were playing Hamburg. Breakfast special, served all day $3.50, and a fine value it is, too. Two scrambled eggs, at least I take their word it is two because it sure ain't three to look at it, I mean you can just tell, right? But it might be two. Since they're all scrambled up you sort of have to trust them. One hotcake. No mistaking that, it's one hotcake allright, and a yummy one it is, too. God only knows what's in the syrup, but it's sticky and that's something. Although now that the ownership has changed, you don't get the hotcake, just some home fries, and that is not at all adequate consolation for depriving us of our hotcake. Bacon or sausage, the Western type, no Chinese duck sausage as one might expect in this part of town, but I don't know how it tastes, as I had the bacon. It tasted like bacon, what can I say? Toast as well, white or brown, both of negligible nutritional value; I think the brown is just dyed. If you want to put anything on the toast they charge you: think it's 35 cents for peanut butter. But on the whole a yummy and voluminous breakfast as you can find anywhere, especially now that Denny's charges like $6 for a Grand Slam; honestly, what is the world coming to when Denny's is too pricy?

 

The other specials are invariably: liver & onions, pork roast, lamb chops, and fish 'n chips. Can't really comment on them, as I haven't eaten them yet, but Carinthia ordered the fish and chips once and said it was good, so it must be. She's a tough sell.

 

I was skating down the street one day and came to a temporary roadblock in the shape of two junkies. One was a tallish, willowy Native girl of about 18, wearing a hot pink baby T and lowrider jeans, with a fringed belt and two long, silky pigtails wrapped with brown leather ties, hanging down in front of her shoulders. Very 70's. Her friend was closer to 30, with a tight poodle perm and black jean jacket, with blue jeans and a big, floppy hat; also very 70's, just not in the good way. She was saying:

 

"See that?" she stage-whispered hoarsely and pointed with a scrawny, frosted-pink-tipped finger. "That's the Ovaltine Cafe. They have the best milkshakes on earth. I'm not fucking with you." Her friend was chuckling, she was so dead serious and secretive, like somebody was listening or something. "The best milkshakes on earth. You don't need to eat nothin' with it, nor nothin' after and you're set for the day. I tell ya, they're the best thing on earth. Expensive, mind you, but they're the best."

 

I figured I'd keep that in mind and skated on my way.

 

She was right, they are the best, at least since that kitchy place in Victoria with the car in the ceiling closed down. And they are decanted with all the ceremony of a fine Burgundy; I think the waitress even had a napkin draped over her arm as she poured my chocolate shake from the tin cup, but it may have just been a tensor bandage. The shakes are so thick you figure it's even money whether the shake comes up the straw or your brains go down into the glass; it's worth the risk. And they taste like the nice, old-fashioned shakes that your pal-with-the-coolest-Dad's Dad used to make when you would all go over there after school. I never understood how somebody without a job could afford a milkshake maker. Anyway, they're like that.

 

But the burgers and fries. Ah, the burgers and fries. How, pray tell, can you beat a $2.80 burger? Fries 80 cents more? Sure, pile them on. These ones are chubby and short, like the deep-fried fingers of Edward G. Robinson. And they are yummy indeed, pure gold on the outside with thin outlines of rich burnt umber along each edge; the insides are as pure as the driven snow, white and fluffy and soft and hot and all sorts of wonderful other things including vinegary, salty and ketchupy after I've finished with them. Yum.

 

The burgers: now, nothing beats a real dinery burger when that's what you want. It's an innate craving, like rootbeer, that cannot be satisfied by any substitute. This is a real, dinery burger. I always order the deluxe, as I am, as you know, a real foodie and always insist on the luxe versions of whatever is served me, the very finest, so I spend the extra 50 cents for a slice of tomato, some shreds of iceberg, and a glob of thousand island dressing; nothing but Cadillac for me! It tastes like a diner burger, which is really all you can ask for $2.80, except that the sesame seeds from the bun not get stuck in your teeth, though they always do.

 

But the best thing about eating here is the eavesdropping, of which more later.

topiary

Next week I shall present you with something authentically Vancouver, and authentically shocking. Until then, this will have to do.

Topiary

The Ovaltine

The OvaltineSaturday, September 21, 2002

 

If you've ever watched DaVinci's Inquest you've probably seen it: the grimy, black-tiled front with two big windows and a Baroque mass of neon up above, declaring the premises to be the Ovaltine Cafe, which it is and has been since this was a working-class neighborhood, back before Welfare.

 

Inside it hasn't changed since then. I don't even think it's been thoroughly scrubbed down since then. Took a friend there once, and she mentioned to the waitress that the last time she was there was in 1964. The waitress apologized for not recognizing her. Carinthia looked like the Queen, with silk scarf from Liberty of London, cashmere coat, and "nice" sweater and skirt combination. Pearls of course. It was like lunching with a costumed superhero; you are treated with a certain kind of awe in the neighborhood if you know, and wear, the real thing. I was wearing my sweats, if I recall, though I was not actually sweating, at least not after I realized that the stares didn't mean we were going to get mugged.

 

At the Ovaltine there are, natch, alot of those old-fashioned swivelling stools planted in front of the long counter, and all one side is booths,Booth in the Ovaltine big enough for four if they have all had sex with one another already, but otherwise only big enough for two. Each booth features a largeish chipped and decaying mirror and a little sign telling you that, yes, they have beer and wine, but you have to pay for it when you order. Must be quite a few stories behind that little policy. My friend Carinthia says they only serve it because the heap-big-mucky-muck cops used to come in the back door and eat lunch there, and they wanted a drink or two to wash it down with.

 

Above the mirrors are several of the kind of paintings that are the very last thing left at the very worst garage sales; dreadful florals painted by slave labour in foreign lands that have never seen daisies anyway, seascapes that make one queasy, it wouldn't surprise me if they had a couple of Walter Keane orphans with big eyes and clown costumes. Or black velvet, but unironic black velvet. And given the state of the walls I'd hate to imagine the state of the velvet.

 

The walls used to be that pastel green colour that all dentist's offices were, the colour that, above all others, was supposed Ovaltine exteriorto soothe people. And I'm sure it did, right up until it got associated with people who stick big needles and drills in your mouth and then lecture you about flossing. So it has all those layers of uncomfortable association, despite having been on the walls so long that the oil is seeping out of the paint itself, forming a faint orange coating in varying thicknesses, dribbling in super slo-mo down the walls that ripple with age. Carinthia tells me it was this way when the Beatles were still playing Hamburg dives.

 

I will not discuss the ceiling; the memory is just too painful.

 

The counters are clean, at least, and you never stick to the booths so they must get wiped down though I am in no hurry to wear short-shorts there any time before Ragnarok. They let people smoke there, at least people do, and I've never heard them tell people to butt out. If you ask, though, they tell you no. There is a No Smoking Section sign in the booth where I usually sit.

 

The salt and pepper really set the tone for the place. The sugar is innocent enough, in a big juice bottle with a hole hammered in the top. The salt is sometimes in a salt shaker, but more often it is in a tiny airline-sized liquor bottle, as is the pepper.

 

If God is in the details I wonder what this says about their gods.

 

Once, a largish Native fellow came in and gave a very complicated order, convoluted enough that the waitress would have to stand at the kitchen door and go over it with the cook. She got a look in her eye that said she'd been down this road before and had no intention of getting taken for this ride again; instead of putting in the order she just went to the back of the place and watched. Soon enough he got up from his booth and moved to a different one. Then he got up from there and went to a stool at the counter. Then he walked quickly out the front door.

 

The whole restaurant was riveted. The waitress walked over to each of the places he'd sat and looked them over with a puzzled expression. Suddenly, she burst out laughing. We all looked at her like a class whose teacher has suddenly flipped out.

 

"He stole all the salt and peppers!"

 

Of course. Value isn't constant on the street; the closer you get to Welfare Wednesday, the cheaper everything gets. Anything that can be turned into money becomes more valuable, especially if the value is fixed. If you return an airline-sized Seagram's bottle to a depot you get 5 cents, regardless of the date. If you sell it to a binner you'll get a different price depending on how close he is to his next cheque. The less he has, the less he gives you. Same with hookers: $10 on Tuesday, or even just a few beers. $50 on Wednesday.

Thundering Fundraiser

The Shebeen Club
Presents

 Who: Al Mader, Spoken Word Phenom and One-Man WonderBand! What: Thundering Fundraiser for T Paul Ste. Marie!  When: 7-10 pm Tuesday, June 20th, 2006 (3rd Tuesday ea month)
Meet & Mingle 7-7:30
Listen & Learn 7:30-8
Poetry Slam Dancing and other Tipsy Cultural Mashups 8-10 Where: The Shebeen, behind the Irish Heather, 217 Carrall  Why: Because Vancouver’s proudly homegrown talent regularly beats the best in the world. Because that talent grew in an environment pioneered by T Paul, founder of Thundering Word Heard. And because T Paul recently suffered a brain aneurysm and needs a helping hand rent-wise, there being little in the way of pensions and sick leave for Entrepreneurs of the Word, Spoken or Otherwise. How (much)? $15 before June 16th, $20 thereafter, includes dinnerAll profits for the evening will be donated to the T Paul fund.Instead of our usual door prizes, we will do a T Paul 50/50 draw. 

Info & tix: lorrainedotmurphyatgmaildotcom

 New Format: Our new, lower admission price includes your choice of bangers and mash or vegetarian pasta, plus a glass of beer or wine.  

Bio: Al Mader is a vocalist and washtub bassist for the (one-man) Minimalist Jug Band, and has scuffed around the country for many years.

If Lou Reed passed out on the grave of Johnny Cash and dreamt of Jack Kerouac the soundtrack to his dream might sound vaguely like Al.

He’s shared stages with the likes of Nick Cave, They Might Be Giants and The Cowboy Junkies.T Paul says he started Thundering Word Heard with the idea that he wanted to create a place where both music and spoken word could come together and be given a place that was their own. And he has done just that. After three years the room is still full every Sunday night even on a long weekend. It takes a lot of time, commitment and a big heart to keep putting on something like this every single week. But it has paid off. Thundering Word continues to be a great success and T Paul’s reputation as a host and organizer continues to grow as well.    “ I have my hands in a million and one things that all seem to have the center in that hub Thundering Word Heard.” 

you fug us, you really fug us!

The Fuggers go to Canada! We'll get Perez any day now!

Bonus Fug

Deep down, buried beneath our hard, enraged, belt-hating exteriors, we have hearts of gold. We're softer than a golden retriever puppy. More agreeable than an heiress in a crack den.

So when MuchMusic.com asked us to participate in their ramp-up to the Much Music Video Music Awards by fugging a few people who showed up last year, we couldn't refuse.

After all, we are very fond of Canada. We know many great Canadians. We have a couple Canadian readers [raincoaster waves]. We are very sorry that Alanis Morrissette and Ryan Reynolds fulfilled our private predictions that they would never get married because they were engaged for too long, and that is a sure sign in Hollywood of cold feet. And despite the fact that one of us went to high school with someone who plays for the Carolina Hurricanes, we are rooting for Edmonton to continue its comeback in the Stanley Cup (last night's overtime win on a short-handed goal? Unbelievable) so that Canada can sit atop the NHL again the way we feel it should.

Ergo, in a sense, we're fugging for Canada; we're sharing it here because, basically, these four blurbs amount to some bonus fug for the day. So here you go, guys — this fug's for you.

 Unfortunately, the Muchers (not nearly as cool as the Kutchers) use the phrase "what in sam hell" in the intro. This cries out for fugnalysis, but as I am currently about to be booted from a public computer and supposed to be headed over to Pivot to do actual work for them, alas I am prevented from giving them what they deserved. As I was prevented, just yesterday, from giving Vicus the 1000 words of re-jiggered Keats he was just asking for. Yeats, Keats, and Bono: the three greatest poets in the history of civilizaton. But at least I laid the smackdown on the blond bombshell.